History of the Mère Brazier Delicatessens
Once upon a time, the “Mères Lyonnaises”
From the 18th century onwards, cooking in Lyon also became a women’s affair with the famous “Mères Lyonnaises” making a major contribution to the gourmet reputation of the capital of Roman Gaul.
Originally from rural backgrounds, they first worked for the wealthy, learning to cook for the middle-classes, before opening their own restaurants – hearty eateries where tradition could be savoured on the tip of the fork. The ‘Mères’ were colourful women with character in spades and hearts brimming with good country know-how.
Their cooking, that revolved around fresh, local produce, gave French gastronomy its rightful renown and inspired some of the world’s greatest chefs.
Eugénie Brazier, the mother of all cooks
When she lost her mother in childhood, Eugénie Brazier was placed on a farm near Bourg-en-Bresse where she looked after the cows and pigs. An unmarried mother by the age of 19, she started out her working life as a maid for a wealthy family in Lyon.
It was at this point that she met the Mère Fillioux and learnt all the ins and outs of middle-class cuisine. Opening her first restaurant in Lyon in 1921 at the age of just 26, followed by a second in 1928 at Col de la Luère in the Monts du Lyonnais, Eugénie Brazier quickly made her mark.
Serving artichoke hearts with foie gras, quenelle dumplings, chicken liver terrine and truffle braised chicken, to name but a few, her cuisine appealed to the most discerning gourmets of the day. Culinary critic Curnonsky lavished praise on her and the Michelin Guide awarded her two restaurants 3 stars in 1933. This was the first and last time a woman has received an award of this calibre. And indeed, it was Eugénie Brazier who trained celebrated French chefs Paul Bocuse and Bernard Pacaud.
Mathieu Viannay,
her spiritual son
When he took over the Mère Brazier restaurant in 2008, Chef Mathieu Viannay, winner of the 2004 Best Craftsman of France award, injected it with a contemporary twist. “I took over the reins of this establishment as gently as I could. I had to simultaneously change everything and nothing.”
A velvet revolution and two stars later, the restaurant continues to shape its story and expand with the opening of deli counters in Lyon and Paris, offering the 21st century version of Eugénie Brazier’s “porte-pot” meaning small bistro: a multi-faceted living space serving everyday gastronomy.
